RYKER CLUTCH KIT BY TREAL PERFORMANCE INFORMATION AND BREAKDOWN

On this page you will find all the info that you need to know about the Can-Am Ryker CLUTCH KIT options from Treal Performance. We will also try to answer some of the more commonly asked questions about the Can-Am Ryker clutch.

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Please keep in mind these clutch kits only fit the CAN-AM / BRP RYKER 900 ACE, RALLY, and SPORT models. 2019 & UP

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There is 3 different stages of clutch kits available from TREAL PERFORMANCE.

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You'll often see clutch kits referred to in stages as numbers. So if we say stage 1 clutch kit we are referring to the STREET CLUTCH. Stage 2 clutch kit - WILD STREET CLUTCH. Stage 3 clutch kit - RACE CLUTCH

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These clutch kits can be purchased at the following link - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-high-performance-clutch-kit-for-2019-2023-900-rally-sport-by-treal-performance

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One of the most important things about the whole entire clutch assembly is understanding the language and what things are called so it doesn't get as confusing for you. We understand some people might be very well experienced at the CVT clutch. However some people might know absolutely nothing about it whatsoever. So here's a small breakdown of what items are called and some nicknames for some of the items as well. Different companies, different people, the internet like social media and YouTube you will see things being referred to as different names meaning the same thing. So we'll cover that stuff here so you have a better understanding. 

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PRIMARY CLUTCH - The primary clutch specifically on the Can-Am ryker is the lower clutch assembly which is also referred to as the lower pulley. Or some people will just refer to it as the lower clutch or bottom clutch. 

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CLUTCH ARMS - The clutch arms are often referred to as weights. So when you see somebody saying change out the clutch arms or change out the weights they could very well be talking about the exact same thing. The clutch arms / weights are what spreads the primary clutch opened at a specific RPM. This means as the bike revs up and the clutch starts spinning these weights (ARMS) are forced outward. This causes the clutch to spread apart and start grabbing the CVT belt. 

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WEIGHTS ON THE CLUTCH ARMS - These are usually found in the form of magnets with a designated spot to put them in each of the clutch arms. This is how you adjust and fine-tune the RPM range that the clutch spins up to. More weights on the clutch arms or heavier clutch arms means The RPMs will come down. For example adding a magnet or weight to the clutch arms can bring the RPM down. So if you change out your clutch kit and the RPMs are just way too high, you can add weights to those arms via the magnets and bring those RPM ranges down. If your RPM range is not high enough then remove the magnetic weights to bring the RPMs up.

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BALANCING THE PRIMARY CLUTCH WEIGHTS/ARMS - It is extremely important to keep everything balanced. On the Can-Am Rykers stock factory primary clutch There is a total of 6 clutch arms / weights. When you are installing your new TREAL Performance clutch kit regardless of what kit you're going with. You need to make sure you keep everything balanced. So if you're changing out the clutch arm, or the weights in the clutch arm you need to do that exact same thing straight across from it. You cannot just change one and leave the rest alone. Your primary clutch will destroy itself. Everything absolutely has to stay balanced and straight across from each other equally. 

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SECONDARY CLUTCH - The secondary clutch is the upper clutch assembly. Often referred to as the upper clutch, or upper pulley. This is where you'll find the rollers and The Helix, behind the helix is a spring. This is also where you will insert the CVT belt changing tool which will spread open that pulley so you can remove the CVT belt.

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ROLLERS - The Can-Am Ryker specifically has two rollers that ride along the Helix inside of the secondary clutch assembly. Rollers can wear out. It is expected that they will wear out and they should be part of your normal maintenance to check them and replace them when needed. If you here a rattling sound coming from the transmission area. Its probably a broken roller.

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HELIX - The Helix is part of the secondary clutch / upper pulley / upper clutch assembly. The Helix is also often referred to as a cam. There is a spring behind the helix which forces the helix to compress and decompress as the RPMs spin up. This is what causes the secondary clutch to open and close. As it opens and closes it will grab and release the CVT belt.

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CVT BELT - The CVT belt is the large belt that goes around the primary clutch and the secondary clutch. (UPPER AND LOWER PULLEY) The stock factory belt can wear out rather quickly, especially under heavy loads and lots of abuse. We recommend the Dynojet power series belts. It is the only belts we carry because that is what we use and that is what we have had the best luck with. We torture test our own Ryker all the time. These DynoJet Power Series Belts have not let us down once. If you ever feel your Ryker is down on power. Or feels like it is slipping when you give it the gas. Or if you are cruising down the road and the RPMs go up but the bike is not picking up speed. Your CVT belt probably needs replaced. These are all signs of a worn out CVT belt.

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First off let's talk about what the clutch kit is going to do for you and your Ryker. Changing out the arms and weights inside the primary clutch will change the way the clutch engages and locks on to the CVT belt. So for example on a completely stock Can-Am Ryker on average as you give it the throttle the belt will start to grab at just above 1,600 RPM. Changing out the clutch arms and changing to various weight combinations will cause the RPM range to go up higher before the clutch actually grabs. This also means it is capable of grabbing a lot harder and getting off the line a lot snappier. This also means that the bike will just ride at a higher RPM then stock. For example the race clutch installed will cause the bike to just cruise around at regular speeds like 30 to 60 mph at 6,000 RPM sometimes even higher. This means with a quick twist of the throttle you will have some unrealistic acceleration and a lot of torque at your fingertips. Obviously depending on which clutch kit you go with will depend on how high those RPMs sit. A STREET CLUTCH will cruise around at a higher RPM than stock but not as high as a WILD STREET CLUTCH. Then obviously the RACE CLUTCH being the more extreme Will cruise around at normal speeds at a even higher RPM. You're 0 to 60 time will be improved tremendously. Along with your top speed and how quickly you get to that top speed. Depending on which clutch kit you go with, The race clutch will have a way quicker 0 to 60 speed then the street clutch.

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 More horsepower and more torque, when it comes right down to it..!

The stock factory clutch setup lacks in horsepower and torque. By changing out to different clutch arms via the TREAL PERFORMANCE clutch kits You will gain a significant amount of horsepower and torque. The more extreme the clutch setup the more horsepower and torque you will make. Also the more extreme the clutch setup the quicker you can get to peak horsepower. On these machines peak horsepower is made right around 8,200 RPM. The quicker you can get to 8200 RPM and hold that RPM at wide open throttle the more power and torque you are going to be putting down to the ground. So that should make it understandable why the more extreme the clutch setup not only the more horsepower and torque you can put to the ground but the quicker you can put it to the ground. 

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 This question comes up quite often.

So here's what you should know. By cruising around at higher RPM you're going to burn through more gas. The more extreme the clutch set up, the higher RPM the cruising speeds are going to be, The more gas the machine is going to use in a shorter amount of time. So you should expect that you are going to be trading gas mileage for horsepower, torque and a whole lot of fun. 

The other side effect that comes along with going to an extreme clutch versus the stock clutch setup is the maintenance. Things like your CVT belt, the Rollers, the Helix, the Springs that are in the clutch system etc... All of these parts and components are considered wear parts. This means that they are expected to be changed out ever so often. The more abuse that they see the more often you'll need to do some maintenance in the clutch area. More horsepower and more torque always means more maintenance. This should be expected. This is the same for any vehicle. Another thing to be mindful of is Traction. The Ryker can easily spin the back tire. It will be able to spin the back tire even more when you change the clutch. If you like BURNOUTS then you have come to the right place.

 We have a YouTube tutorial video that walks you through the whole process. You'll find that link right here - https://youtu.be/zokTGhS_XQo?si=m0yT4wzl80t6h7Pi

Something to note is that on 2019 and 2020 900 Ace and Rally models You will need to remove the primary clutch completely from the vehicle in order to service the arms and  add or take away the magnetic weights to your clutch kit or install your clutch kit altogether.

Here is the link to the primary clutch removal tool that we carry - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-primary-clutch-puller-tool-2019-2023-600-900-rally-sport 

 On 2021 and newer 900 Ace, Rally, and Sport models with the weight changing tool you can make changes and install your clutch kit all right there on the machine. There is no need to take the primary clutch off the vehicle. 

Here is a link to the clutch weight changing tool - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-cvt-clutch-weight-changing-tool-for-2021-2025-900-rally-sport 

No matter what model you're working on, you will need a CVT belt removal tool.

Here's the link to that tool - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-cvt-belt-changing-tool 

With any of these clutch kits it is definitely recommended to swap out to a UPGRADED CVT belt that can hold up to the abuse. We recommend the DynoJet power series belt. That's what we carry and that is all we run on our machine.

Here's the link to the power series belt - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-900-rally-sport-cvt-replacement-belt-dynojet-power-series 

 Yes custom tuning is definitely recommended.

When we do the custom tuning using a device like the Dynojet PV4 or Dynojet PV3. We can make the various changes to the Ryker to correlate with your modifications. In the tuning we will make sure that you can get to peak Rev limit without going over it and damaging the motor. We also remove the top speed limit cap so you won't be limited on how fast you can go. As many of you already know these bikes have a top speed limit cap from the factory that is not very high. Obviously doing the clutching will get you there quicker but you will still be limited to that top speed limit cap if you don't do the custom tuning. All of our tuning is designed for 91 to 98 premium octane and is specifically built for track or off-road use. A custom tune means exactly what it sounds like. We will tailor the tune to your needs and wants and to match up with your vehicle and your modifications. If there's something specific that you're looking for in the tuning you can let us know and we can see if we can make it happen. In the tuning we also change the ignition timing, we change the AFR, the VE tables, we lower the cooling fan on an off temperatures. We also adjust the maximum torque and maximum load settings. We also change the DBW settings which means you'll have a snappier throttle response in the upper drive modes like sport mode and rally mode. We can make it as chill as you want or as extreme as you want. We can also make any adjustments after we do the tuning if you desire something different than what we have done. We don't charge anything to do that. For example if you tell us that the throttle response is just too sensitive we can build you another tune and lower that throttle response back down. We do not charge for that. 

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 These 900cc rotex motors love to have a lot of air flow. Both coming into the motor and out of the motor. When you do things like getting rid of the factory air box and air intake setup and switching over to a RAM air intake system along with an open flowing Exhaust system we can make a lot more power than we can with the stock factory exhaust and airbox setup. When you do these types of modifications along with a clutch kit it is a significant gain. In your custom tune that we build we will make it so it is designed for your exhaust system and Intake system along with your new clutch so the bike performs the way it's supposed to without risking damaging the motor by running lean. By going with our custom tuning you are also future-proofing the machine. For example, let's say we do the tuning right now for your clutch kit and your new exhaust. 6 months later you reach out to us and let us know that you are switching to a Ram air intake system. For a small fee we will gladly build you a new custom tune for your new parts. With the PV4 we can add that new custom tune straight to your Dynojet account. With the PV3 we can email you your new custom tune. 

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You can purchase the Dynojet PV3 or Dynojet PV4 directly from our website and you'll see an option to check a box that says yes I want a custom tune. You are getting the custom tuning at a discounted price when you purchase the tuner through us with the custom tune. 

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DYNOJET PV3 - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv3-25-11-by-dynojet 

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DYNOJET PV4 - https://www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv4-25-01-by-dynojet-with-optional-custom-tuning-by-blr-tuning

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We have a section showing all the different performance parts and bundles we carry for the Ryker here - https://www.blrtuning.co/collections/can-am-ryker-high-performance-parts-and-performance-bundles

 This is also another question that we come across on a daily basis.

If you already own a tuning device and now you're wanting to upgrade the parts like the clutch kit, exhaust, intake system etc... We can absolutely build you a custom tune for your already owned tuning device. (PV3/PV4) Our price ranges very on this subject so for those details please send us an email. We need to know the year, make, and model of the bike and a complete list of performance modifications that we would be building the tune for. Then we can give you a price quote.

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You can send us an email at blrtuning.tech@gmail.com 

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If you already own a a dynojet PV3 or PV4 and we have already done the tuning on your Ryker in the past then we would not charge you anything to send you a new tune if you are purchasing any TREAL Performance clutch kit, exhaust, or intake system from our website. We will update your tune at no additional cost to match up with your new parts.

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 When you get the factory primary clutch separated you will see six factory stock OEM clutch arms without any removable weights. They cannot be adjusted or modified. Each are held in by a nut and bolt. It is important to pay attention to the direction that the bolt goes through and what side the nut goes on. They should always be assembled in the same fashion that they came apart. It is always best practice to do one at a time. Unbolt one clutch arm that is factory and install a new aftermarket clutch arm and bolt it in completely and then move on to the next one. This is the best practice to keep things from getting confusing or mixed up.

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If I purchase a TREAL PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT what will I get in the box? 

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 STREET CLUTCH - (STAGE 1)

You will get three new clutch arms. They need to be installed into the primary clutch evenly. You'll need to install them every other one. So your clutch arms would be in this order - TREAL PERFORMANCE, STOCK, TREAL PERFORMANCE, STOCK, TREAL PERFORMANCE, STOCK

 WILD STREET CLUTCH - (STAGE 2)

This kit will come with four clutch arms. It will also come with three magnets (WEIGHTS) for each arm. So now your primary clutch will be using two stock arms straight across from each other and then the other four arms will be replaced with your new TREAL PERFORMANCE clutch arms. You'll be able to add the magnets/weights to your new clutch arms to fine tune and adjust your clutch exactly how you like it. 

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 RACE CLUTCH - (STAGE 3)

This kit will come with six TREAL Performance clutch arms and 18 magnets (CLUTCH ARM WEIGHTS) This clutch kit at wide open throttle will instantly jump to peak RPM and then you'll see the RPMs come down and slowly build back up and hold itself there. This is the most extreme clutch kit. It is also the most adjustable clutch kit. You'll have the ability to add or take away three magnetic weights per arm. This gives you a wide range of adjustment. Something to also take note of is if you own the race clutch you can always swap out the arms back to stock arms to experiment around and create your own clutch setup. This means you have a unlimited range of fine tuning the RPMs that your bike is riding at and hitting at wide open throttle. You can build the race clutch into the street clutch or wild street clutch very easily. So this kit will come with everything you would need to run any of the three clutch kits. So if you're looking for the most horsepower and most torque and most adjustability this would be the clutch kit that you would want. Just understand when all six arms are installed the bike will ride at a significant amount of RPM. It is called a race clutch for a reason. It was designed with racing in mind. Same thing applies to this clutch kit as the other clutch kits. When adding or taking away clutch arms or the magnetic weights it should all be done equally. If you remove weight from one side of the clutch directly across from it needs to be identical. It's good practice to start out with the magnets installed and see where the bike sits at in RPM. If you need the RPMs to go up start removing magnetic weights. Removing one weight from two of the arms across from each other will bring the RPMs up about 50 RPM. 25 RPM per weight is about the average. 

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We hope you found this page useful. You can always refer back to this page when trying to understand how the clutch kits work. If we missed something please let us know so we can add to this page. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to reach out to us. 

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blrtuning.tech@gmail.com 

Ph# 1-360-910-8377